Made of metal, it has a top hole and a larger bottom hole, and contains no moving parts. Typically used for rappelling and in search and rescue efforts, a figure 8 device also works for belaying. Takes more practice to efficiently let out rope to a lead climber.Works with a narrower range of rope diameters.Camming device not good for icy/wet conditions.Cannot be used for a traditional rappel, as they only accommodate one rope.Firmly grips rope while your climber weights the rope.Camming mechanism makes it easier to lower a climber in a controlled manner.Safest, most technologically advanced belay devices on the market.Instead of pinching the rope between the belay device and the carabiner, active assisted braking devices use an internal camming mechanism to pinch the rope, locking down on the rope when a climber falls. However, they are mostly used for single-pitch sport climbing. They work in the gym, and outside for sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbing. These belay devices contain moving parts. Rope tends to lock up, especially when your climber weighs more than you.Models with two slots work for traditional rappelling.Lighter than active assisted braking belay devices.Helpful when the climber outweighs the belayer.Confusing, right? “Passive” actually refers to the fact that this type of assisted braking belay device has no moving parts. Passive does not mean hands-free or inactive. Keep in mind, you still have to be an attentive belayer while using a passive device. These auto belay devices resemble tubulars, but they pinch the rope between the device and the carabiner to stop the rope. There are two types: passive and active, which refer to whether or not the device has moving parts (not to how much effort the belayer has to put in). Belayer can become fatigued, which makes tubulars a bad choice for projecting and route-settingĪlso known as auto-blocking, auto-locking, self-braking, or self-locking devices, assisted braking belay devices lock down on the rope to help a belayer catch and hold a fallen climber.Provides belayer less assistance in supporting the weight/impact of a climber.Accommodates a wide range of rope diameters.Hold the free end of the rope down with your brake hand to apply friction and hold the weight of the climber. Some tubulars have ridges that create extra friction. Friction created by the rope’s contact with the belay device helps stop the rope when a climber falls. Insert a bight-a bend in the rope-through one slot, clip a locking carabiner through the loop and attach it to the belay loop on your harness. The two slot versions also work for traditional rappelling. These belay devices can be used for all types of climbing: sport, trad, gym, multi-pitch, and ice. They work with a locking carabiner and either one or two ropes. The most common type of belay device used in climbing today is a tubular belay device, aka ATC, which stands for “air traffic controller.” An ATC is actually one specific model created by Black Diamond, but it has become the mainstream term for tubular, just like a bandage is known as a Band-Aid and tissues are often called Kleenex. Now that you’ve thought over those variables, here’s a guide to the different types of belay devices and how to pick the best one for you. Are you looking for a device you can use for any climb, or would you rather specialize?.Will you need to use the device to rappel, or to belay up a second climber?. If you already own a rope, will the belay device fit the diameter rope you use?.Where and in what conditions do you usually climb?.What types of climbing do you prefer (e.g., sport, trad, multi-pitch, etc.)?.When deciding which belay device to use, ask yourself the following questions: They vary in price, ease of use, safety features, and level of assistance with braking. However, three main types of devices exist: tubular belay devices, assisted braking belay devices, and the figure 8. In this situation, using an assisted braking device can make the difference between a serious injury and a high-five back on the ground.īelay devices use friction created by a bend in the rope to catch falls and lower climbers. You brace your body to slam into the rock, and look down so that any debris raining down on you from the fall lands on your helmet. The minute your partner’s foot slips, you have a split second to not only control how far they fall, but how you’ll fly up (physics!). If your bigger partner leads the climb, a big fall means you both might be going for a ride. If you’ve ever partnered up with a climber who’s bigger than you, you know the difference that the right belay device makes.
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